NYFW Spring 2025 Collection
Stolen Paradise
Gretchen Heist, the New York luxury fashion house, is excited to unveil its inaugural runway collection, "Stolen Paradise." The collection, led by Creative Director Gretchen Weed, is inspired by the different stages of grief following the end of a romantic relationship. Each garment in the collection represents various emotional phases, including Lust, Love, Denial, Anger, Forlorn, Negotiation, Acceptance, and Forgiveness.
Overall, Gretchen Heist’s “Stolen Paradise” Spring/Summer NYFW 2025 collection aims to explore the emotions experienced during the stages of lost relationships. It delves into the concepts of Idolization, Value, Fallen Angels, Solitude, and Forgiveness, which can change perspectives and shape individuals. The collection invites the audience to feel the emotions of Lust, Love, Denial, Anger, Forlorn, Negotiation, Acceptance, and ultimately Forgiveness as each look graces the runway.
Print & Shapes
Despite the fading hues, the pattern remains steadfast, symbolizing memories evolving over time as the impact of the relationship unfolds with each phase. The primary patterns for the collection depict rolling beach waves and a Tuscan landscape (both a representation of paradise for the Creative Director), created by ripping the material and then weaving it back together. This technique represents the heroine regaining control and reestablishing her paradise after the relationship’s ending.
Influence
The culmination of the collection is influenced by the Japanese art of Kintsugi, which repairs broken pottery with the Japanese lacquer (urushi) and then is dusted with powdered gold. The art form is based on the idea that healed imperfections make an object stronger, more valuable, and, ultimately, more beautiful. The art of Kintsugi is reflected in the final looks of the collection as the garments are embellished and veined with a melting gold motif. The color story also reflects this emotional journey, starting with the passionate color of fire red and gradually fading into softer shades of cream with highlights of gold.
Artistic Collaboration
Gretchen Heist collaborated with French contemporary artist Clément Denis, known for his unique technique of woven painting on paper. For the collection, Denis created two paintings of a man and a woman with angel wings that have been torn apart and woven together into a single work of art. The painting was then printed on fabric, and the material was ripped and woven back together again to create a final graphic. The ultimate image & bodice shape emulate the motif of a cracked clay pot that has been repaired with the Kintsugi practice. Within this look, the reinterpretation of the original painting represents the heroine’s journey as the bodice was strategically rewoven to highlight only the heroine’s eyes while the back of the garment showcases the complete painting. This represents that the relationship is behind her as she travels through the stages of grief. Inspired by Denis’ techniques, the collection specifically highlights the weaving of intricate beaded designs and fabrics. The woven nature of the work signifies the heroine’s emotional journey. The weaving creates a labyrinth-like design that serves as a tribute to those who have experienced grief and wandered in new directions to heal.
Music Design
As the looks take the runway, the sound design enhances the viewer’s emotional journey. The musical score represents the stages of grief via techniques of absence or additions with frequent cuts between truncated sounds. As the show concludes, the musical portions culminate into a singular song, resettling the audience’s perception.
Embellishment
The collection features polished beach stones as the primary textural element to augment traditional sequins or beads, alluding to the rolling wave and beach motif. The use of the stones represents the hardening of the heroine’s heart, as well as the creative technique of elevating stones or non-traditional “sequins” into embellishment material. The beach stones are intricately woven into the looks to create a full bodice, hand jewelry, and a beaded skirt. The concept of the evolution of the heroine has also been incorporated into the silhouettes. The collection begins with wide shapes and as the heroine moves through her stages, the styles transition into more guarded forms.